The product of parents with thick unruly hair of their own, I seem to have inherited the cumulative effects of both. Add to that a penchant for hair coloring (see my Corrective Color Review) and what I represent is every low-maintenance girl’s worst nightmare. It is neither curly nor straight. It is extremely thick, therefore layered to prevent my hair from being as wide as it is long. Through experimentation and sheer determination, I manage to pull off a decent style. I even get lots of compliments. What they don’t know is that my collection of flat irons, curling irons, and blow drying accoutrements looks as though I raided a salon, and I say a silent prayer every time I leave the house that it does not rain. I have undoubtedly wasted years of my life in front of the mirror, tricking my hair into behaving.

Now make no mistake, the Japanese Set Perm is no Jennifer Beals a la Flashdance perm, and you do not need to be a hair-wrestler like me to appreciate the effects.  Although it is perfect for frizzy hair because it relaxes as it curls, it is also good for those who either have straight hair and want it curly, or have very tight curls and want them to be fuller and wavier. 

About a week before my perm, I went to see Yan at Le Salon Chinois for the required consultation to determine if my hair was healthy. The process is not particularly harsh, but it does include chemicals and heat, and damaged brittle hair would not be the best candidate for the process. This is not to be confused with FRIZZY hair like mine, which can sometimes look dry and unhealthy. 

I was very excited when my hair was deemed to be healthy and in good condition, despite years of color treatment. The Set Perm looks best on long, layered hair, and you will probably want to get a trim beforehand so that your hair is in optimal condition.

When I arrived for the perm, the first thing that happened was my hair was washed and separated into sections. An amino acid solution was carefully painted onto each section to condition and protect my hair during the process. Next the perm lotion is applied, again carefully worked into each section so that it reaches every stand of hair. Yan and his assistant then rolled each strand in a special curler, which was secured with a rubber band going from end to end.

Next came the really interesting part. Claw-like clips were attached over each of the curlers and a felt pad was inserted between each curler and my scalp. This is the point at which all the stuff on my head started to get really heavy. Cognizant of this aspect of the process, Yan was asking me the whole time if I was comfortable, and I was able to position myself in such a way that the weight was centered on my head instead of awkwardly pulling my neck. Both the curlers and the “claws” were then plugged into a machine which heated both elements, so that my rolled hair was being heated from the inside and the outside at the same time. If you have ever wondered what you would look like as an alien, this is your chance to find out. All the wires coming out of your curler-laden head will certainly give you the effect of feeling like you are in a sci-fi movie.

After about 20 minutes of heat, I waved goodbye to cyborg-lady as the wires, claws, and curlers were removed and my hair was rinsed with a special conditioner that is used for Thermal Reconditioning. I was surprised at first when the curls didn’t seem very drastic, but Yan assured me that unlike ye olde perms of the 80’s, these waves will become fuller when dry.

Speaking of drying, this is not necessarily a rinse-and-go style if you want the curls to look their best. It does still involve a bit of taming, but the amount of time and work it requires is miniscule compared to manually curling, flat ironing, and the like. One method of styling is to twist sections of hair and blow-dry the sections as you continue to twist. The other method is virtually the same except you let it air-dry after you twist the sections. The equation is simple: the bigger the sections, the fuller the curl.

The Japanese Set Perm may be brand new in the States, but it has been used in Asia for the past 2-3 years. The process costs $400 plus tips, but if you are like me and spend too much time fighting with your hair, the cost is well worth it. Years of my life, given back to me! The curls are soft and spiraling. Best of all, I can continue to color my hair, and if the mood hits me to mix things up, I can still use a flat-iron to straighten it.

Before

Solution

Rollers


Sci-fi Clamps

Twist


After

I’ve had the Japanese Set Perm for 2 weeks now and with the time I’ve saved, I’ve been able to catch up on lots of things, like the guilty pleasure of indulging celebrity gossip magazines. And now when I see a photo of Ms. Zeta Jones, I think “Hmmm. Her hair looks ALMOST as good as mine!”

Arlene Marshall
Beauty Editor
spa-nyc.com

learn more about Le Salon Chinois

Tips for a visit to Le Salon Chinois:
- During your consultation, be sure to inform the stylist of any color or chemical treatments you have received. It will help the stylist to gauge what he/she is working with.
-You won’t be able to wash your hair for 48 hours and you’ll be able to smell the chemicals, so you may not want to plan any blind dates.
-Color treated hair will lighten slightly, so don’t be alarmed. You might even like the effect!
- If you’re happy with this, or any other salon service, tip at least 15-20%.